Shrewd Food

I am indebted to Shrewd Food for the nobly simple and obvious concept of “fruit bowl jam”.

The idea is that you spare, from their fate on the compost heap, the dubious and imperfect specimens that tend to lurk at the bottom of the fruit bowl towards the end of the week, and use them to make small quantities of what may speculatively be termed “jam”.

I used five or six nectarines d’un certain âge and a fistful of sugar to make an admittedly runny preserve (I’m not sure how much pectin there is in nectarines, relatively speaking), which may not have been ideally suited to toast, but which nonetheless served to enliven my porridge for the rest of the week.

And enlivening one’s porridge is surely, in this day and age, an uncontroversial delight.

A Belligerence of Starlings

The starlings, I have just noticed, have returned. And in numbers too, which I suppose is hardly surprising. Six or seven of them can just now be seen in silhouette on a neighboring gable, picking at something on the tiles.

I hope it’s some kind of nasty moss. I hope they choke on it, the vile creatures.

This habit that starlings have, of descending, suddenly and in numbers, like a biker gang roaring into a quiet seaside village, scaring away all the nice blue tits and chaffinches who were happily coexisting around the feeder, prompts me to wonder whether we have a suitable collective noun for starlings, one that captures their malevolent and obnoxious essence.

We have a murder of crows, of course, and a collective noun that directly evokes a crime seems quite fitting for the peculiar odiousness of corvids.

However, the crime of which starlings can most fairly be accused is the admittedly lesser offence of stealing someone else’s lunch. A larceny of starlings? It’s not bad, but it isn’t quite right.

What is wanted is a collective noun that is charged with some of the presence of starlings, the surly and minatory quality which, along with unappealing spots, they share with schoolyard bullies.

I am going to suggest a belligerence of starlings. Just you see if it doesn’t catch on.

Tomato and Chilli Chutney

 

 

This was a rather straightforward chutney, but it benefited from tomatoes grown by B. and onions grown by E. and M. on their country allotment.

Ingredients

1 kg tomatoes

2 onions

180 g sugar

120 ml white wine vinegar

1 thumb-sized chunk of root ginger

1 tsp chilli flakes

1/2 tsp sweet smoked paprika (I use La Chinata)

Seasoning to taste

Method

1. Add a glug of olive oil to a heavy-bottomed saucepan.

2. Grate the ginger directly into the olive oil. This works better if the ginger is straight from the freezer, which is where ours tends to be stored.

3. Chop the onions roughly, so that they provide some bite and texture in the finished chutney. Sweat these on a low heat until clear.

4. Add the tomatoes and sugar and bring to the boil, stirring constantly.

5. Reduce the heat. Add the vinegar and chilli flakes.

6. Simmer until the mixture has been reduced to a viscous and glossy sauce. You want a chutney that will stay put when you spoon it onto a cracker. This will take an hour or longer. Wait until 10 or 15 minutes from the end to add the paprika as it’s a more delicate spice.

Serving Suggestions

With cheese on any suitable vehicle (bread, crackers, what-have-you). We put it on burgers on the day we made the batch picture above, which was met with general acclaim.

Bird Sighting: Willow Warbler

At the kitchen window today, I was surprised by an entirely unfamiliar bird. It was hovering, albeit imperfectly, and darting now and then at its own reflection, something I have never seen any bird do in our garden.

It flitted obligingly to the patio, where I could get a better view through the french doors and reach stealthily for the Collins Bird Guide.

Given the colouring (a vivid, citric yellow breast, slightly greener and darker above), the body shape (slender, longish) and the behaviour (darting busily among the shoots of Rosa ‘Iceberg’ and picking off aphids), the most likely suspect seemed the willow warbler (Phylloscopus trochilus). The very distinct eye-stripe also seemed unmistakable.

The Guide confirms that the willow warbler is a common visitor in Britain and Ireland between April and September. My father concurs by text, and surmises that the nearby woods and river (the Dargle is about 2 km distant) could well attract it.

The Ripe Stuff: Day 6

I do not know what the day is, nor the hour. I know that darkness has settled upon us as might a cloak thrown over an armchair by a man returning after a long absence to his club, if it were not his best cloak and if the chair were not his favoured wingback armchair by the well-tended hearth. Ah, London–how I think of thee! How I see thee even now. But I am wavering in my duty.

Around me, the men are grumbling in their sleep. Whether the grumbling arises from their throats or from their famished bellies, I cannot say. What I know for certain is that nothing has passed our lips in six days but the fleas we have picked from the sleigh dogs. The odour of the now elderly banana permeates the camp, and it is all I can do to restrain my fellows from falling upon it and devouring it for what little sustenance it will give them. I have myself, God knows, endured moments of weakness, moments when my purpose has faltered.

But we must hold to our course. Three of our tomatoes have been lulled, I daresay, into a praeternatural ripeness. Three or four others, if I am not deceived, seem apt to follow them. All may not yet be lost.

We burned one of the dogs last night for warmth. He was lame, poor devil, but we had come to be fond of him. Rupert, we called him, for a chap at Harrow who was dear to me. He was most fearfully damp and difficult to ignite.

[The last sentence is stricken out. The following is added in another hand, and is unattributed.]

It was the dog what was damp. Not the poof from Harrow. He were a good dog and should of got a better name like Victor or Lord and I can say so now as it don’t matter. He better keep his hands on his tomatoes now is all or there will be trouble is all I am saying.

[The original hand resumes.]

May God forgive us.

Lyons Tea Bags Delicious, Destructible – Official Source

Having discovered suspiciously intact scraps of tea bag in strata of the compost heap dating from almost two years ago, I began to wonder about the biodegradability of our favoured brand of tea bag.

The e-mail below is from a helpful “careline adviser” at Buy ‘n’ Large–sorry, I mean, Unilever, which turns out to own Lyons Tea (as well as Persil, the patent for clothes pegs and Belgium).

It seems to confirm that Lyons tea bags don’t contain polypropylene, which is nice. It also seems to suggest that they are, in their entirety, naturally occurring, which is mildly surprising.

Dear Mr/s Paraic,

Thank you for your recent email.

I can confirm that all Lyons Tea Bags are fully compostable as they are made from natural fibres and are not man made.

I do hope that you will find this information useful. If you have any further queries please feel free to contact us again.

Kind regards,
[Name removed]